How to Paint Trim and Woodwork

1. ✨ Satin gives specialist woodwork paint a smooth lustre that suits traditional and contemporary interiors.
2. 🛡️ Use the specialist paint for the surface. Gloss is not in our launch range.
3. 🕯️ Matt gives a soft, restrained look. Both launch woodwork finishes are Class 1 scrubbable.
4. 🎨 Decide the finish before you buy, not after. Sheen changes how light reflects from the colour: Satin has more lustre than Matt.
5. 🏠 Keep one finish running through a whole floor of the house wherever possible — mixed sheens on adjoining skirting and frames are very noticeable in daylight.

🧪 Order a sample and paint a spare offcut of timber, then hold it against the skirting at different times of day before committing.

⚖️ Higher sheen can make surface imperfections more noticeable. Fill and sand carefully, particularly for Satin.

1. 🪵 120 grit — coarse. Use it only for removing old, failing or heavily built-up paint, and for levelling ridges and runs left by previous decorators.
2. ✨ 320 grit — fine. This is your final grit before painting on every surface in this guide. It creates the fine, even key the paint grips onto.
3. 🧽 A sanding sponge — flexible. It follows profiled, moulded and turned surfaces such as architrave detail and staircase spindles where flat paper simply bridges the shape.
4. ➡️ Always sand in the direction of the grain. Cross-grain scratches will telegraph through both coats and cannot be hidden later.
5. 😷 Wear a dust mask and open a window. Old paint layers may be lead-based in properties built before 1970 — if in doubt, do not dry sand.

🔁 Never jump straight from 120 grit to paint. The scratch pattern is far too coarse and will show through the finish.

📦 Fold a full sheet into three and refold as it clogs — you get three fresh faces from one piece.

1. 🌀 Stir for 1–2 minutes with a drill and mixing paddle on a slow speed, or for 2–3 minutes by hand with a stirring stick.
2. ⬇️ Work the paddle right to the bottom of the tin and around the edges — pigment and matting agents settle there and cause patchy sheen if left.
3. 🚫 Never shake a tin of water-based trim paint. Shaking whips in air bubbles that burst on the surface and leave pinholes in the dried film.
4. 🔄 Re-stir between coats and again if the tin has stood for more than an hour while you were preparing.
5. 🫗 Decant what you need into a paint kettle rather than working from the tin, so brush dust and grit never contaminate the main supply.

💬 "Preparation is everything. The paint is the easy part."

🎯 If you are using more than one tin of the same colour, box them — pour all tins into one large container and stir together for a guaranteed consistent colour.

1. 🔍 Run your hand and eye along the whole run first and mark the problem areas — flaking edges, crazed patches and thick brush-mark ridges.
2. 🪵 Sand those areas with 120 grit until the failing paint is removed and the surface is level with the sound paint around it.
3. 📏 Feather the edges of each repair so there is no hard step between bare timber and existing paint — a step will show clearly through the finish.
4. 🧹 Vacuum the debris as you go rather than sweeping it, which just redistributes the dust onto surfaces you are about to paint.
5. ⏭️ If the existing paintwork is sound and smooth, skip this step entirely and go straight to keying with 320 grit.

⚠️ Properties built before 1970 may have lead paint under later layers. Do not dry sand — test first and use a wet-sanding or chemical method if positive.

🧱 Our Trim & Woodwork paint is self-priming, so bare patches exposed by stripping need no separate primer; spot-prime them with a thin coat of the paint itself so they don't show through the finish.

🪵 Seal any bare knots in pine or softwood with knotting solution before painting, so resin cannot bleed through and stain the finish.

1. ✨ Sand the entire board with 320 grit in the direction of the grain — the whole face, the top edge and any moulded detail.
2. 🧽 Switch to a sanding sponge on the moulded profile at the top of the board, where flat paper only touches the high points.
3. 👋 You are not removing the old finish, only dulling it. When the surface looks uniformly matt with no shiny patches left, you are done.
4. 🦵 Work in metre-long sections and check each one by eye at a low angle before moving on — glossy patches are missed key and will cause peeling.
5. 🚪 Do not forget the returns at door openings and the short lengths behind radiators, which are the areas most often skipped.

🪞 Any remaining sheen is a place the paint can lift from later. Two extra minutes here saves a repaint in a year.

💡 Hold a torch parallel to the surface to reveal shiny spots your eye misses under normal room light.

1. 🧽 Wipe the board down with a slightly damp microfibre cloth — always microfibre, as cotton rags and kitchen roll leave lint behind in the finish.
2. 💧 Damp, not wet. The cloth should lift dust without leaving water sitting on the timber or soaking into filler repairs later.
3. ⬇️ Work top to bottom so dust falls onto surfaces you have not yet cleaned, and finish with the very bottom edge where dust collects.
4. ♻️ Rinse and wring the cloth out regularly. A saturated cloth just spreads a grey film of paint dust along the board.
5. ⏳ Let the surface dry completely — around 10 minutes in a ventilated room — before you fill or paint.

🌬️ Vacuum the floor along the skirting line as well. Dust on the floor gets kicked up and lands in your wet paint.

🚫 Avoid tack cloths with a waxy feel on water-based systems — some leave a residue that causes cissing.

1. 🩹 Press fine surface filler firmly into each dent, nail hole and split with a filling knife, working it in rather than skimming it over.
2. ⬆️ Leave every repair slightly proud of the surrounding surface — all fillers shrink slightly as they dry, and a sunken repair means a second application.
3. 📐 Scrape the excess off with the edge of the knife so you have less to sand back afterwards.
4. 🕳️ Fill deep holes in two thin passes rather than one thick one. A thick plug dries slowly on the outside and stays soft in the middle.
5. ⏳ Allow the filler to dry fully as directed — typically 30–60 minutes for fine surface filler, longer in cold or damp rooms.

🚫 Do not use filler on the gap where skirting meets the wall — that joint moves and rigid filler will crack. Use caulk instead.

🌡️ Filler dries far more slowly below 10°C. Warm the room before you start if you want to paint the same day.

1. ✨ Sand each filled area back flush with 320 grit, keeping the paper flat so you level the repair rather than dishing it out.
2. 👋 Check every repair by running your fingertips over it with your eyes closed — your hand detects a ridge long before your eye does.
3. 🔁 If a repair has sunk below the surface, apply a second thin skim of filler and sand again once dry rather than accepting a hollow.
4. 🧽 Feather the edge of each repair into the surrounding paint so there is no visible outline once painted.
5. 💧 Wipe away all filler dust with a damp microfibre cloth and let the board dry.

💡 Filler dust is very fine and pale — inspect with a torch held at a low angle to be sure it has all gone.

🎨 Filled areas are more absorbent than the paint around them. Spot-priming large repairs with a thin coat of the paint itself (it is self-priming) stops flashing in the finish.

1. 🔧 Cut the nozzle at 45° with a small opening — you can always enlarge it, but an oversized bead is messy and wastes material.
2. 🩹 Run a thin, continuous bead along the gap where the skirting meets the wall, moving the gun steadily and keeping pressure even.
3. 👆 Smooth the bead immediately with a damp finger or caulking tool, pressing it into the joint rather than dragging it along the surface.
4. 🧽 Wipe the excess away straight away with a damp cloth — cured caulk smeared on the wall face is very difficult to remove and shows under paint.
5. ⏳ Allow the caulk to dry as directed, typically 1–2 hours, before painting over it.

🩹 For a razor-sharp line: tape along the top of cured skirting, run a thin bead of clear paintable caulk where the tape meets the wall, smooth with a damp finger, paint the wall immediately while the caulk is wet, then peel the tape while the paint is still wet.

✅ Only ever use caulk marked paintable. Silicone sealant will reject paint completely.

1. 🛡️ Run premium painter's tape along the wall just above the top edge of the skirting, in long unbroken lengths rather than short overlapping pieces.
2. 👆 Press the bottom edge of the tape down firmly with a filling knife or your thumbnail so paint cannot creep underneath.
3. 📦 Slide a strip of cardboard or a masking shield under the bottom edge of the board to catch drips and keep paint off carpet and hard floors.
4. 🧺 Lay a dust sheet along the full length of the run, tucked tight to the skirting rather than left loose to shuffle around underfoot.
5. 🔌 Mask or remove socket faceplates and floor vents sitting close to the skirting line.

📅 Use fresh tape. Old tape loses adhesion, lifts at the edge and bleeds badly.

🕐 Do not leave tape on the wall for days. Remove it the same day wherever possible to avoid pulling wall paint off with it.

1. 🖌️ Load a good quality synthetic brush about a third of the way up the bristles and tap off the excess against the kettle rather than scraping it.
2. 🎨 Cut in the top moulded edge first, then the face, then the bottom edge, always brushing along the length of the board.
3. 🧻 On long flat runs, lay the paint on with a short pile microfibre roller and immediately lay it off with a light brush stroke along the grain for a uniform texture.
4. 📏 Work in sections of roughly one metre and keep a wet edge — join into paint that is still wet, never into paint that has started to set.
5. 👀 Check the bottom edge and any internal corners for pooled paint before moving on, and brush out any runs while they are still wet.

🎨 Paint skirting boards before the walls — trim paint is less porous, so any wall paint that lands on it wipes off easily.

📉 Two thin coats always beat one thick coat. A heavy first coat sags on vertical faces and takes far longer to harden.

1. 🫰 Check it is ready before recoating: wait out the recommended recoat time first — 1–2 hours, longer if conditions are cool or damp — then tap the dried coat very lightly with a fingernail, gently enough not to dent the film. It should feel and sound firm and hard. If it feels soft and sounds dull, a bit like tapping a pencil rubber, give it longer.
2. 🪶 Denib before the next coat: rub the dry coat very lightly with 320 grit to knock back raised grain and dust nibs, then wipe away the dust.
3. ⏱️ Allow 1–2 hours between coats. Touch dry is around 30 minutes, but the film needs the extra time before it will take a second coat cleanly.
4. 👆 Test in an inconspicuous spot with the back of a finger — the surface should feel dry and cool with no tack at all.
5. 🌬️ Keep the room ventilated and reasonably warm. Cold, damp or unventilated rooms can double the recoat time.
6. 🧼 Wrap your brush and roller in cling film or a sealed bag during the wait rather than washing them out and starting again wet.
7. 🔍 Use the hour to inspect the first coat at a low angle and note any thin areas to concentrate on next time round.

⚠️ Recoating too early drags the first coat, leaves visible ridges and traps solvent in the film.

🚫 Do not sand between coats unless you have a nib or a run — the finish is better left undisturbed.

1. 🌀 Re-stir the tin and decant fresh paint into a clean kettle before you begin.
2. 🖌️ Apply the second full coat exactly as the first — top edge, face, bottom edge, always along the grain.
3. 💨 Keep a wet edge and work steadily along the run without stopping halfway down a long board, which leaves a visible join.
4. 👀 Look along the board at a low angle as you go, checking for holidays, thin patches and drips while the paint is still workable.
5. 🚷 Keep pets, children and traffic out of the room until the coat is touch dry — dust and hair settle into wet trim paint immediately.

🌈 The second coat is where the colour and sheen even out. Resist the urge to overwork it once it starts to set.

🔦 Dark colours over pale ones occasionally need a third thin coat — check in daylight before deciding.

1. 🛡️ Peel the tape back on itself at a shallow angle, slowly and steadily, while the second coat is still wet.
2. ↔️ Pull away from the painted edge rather than straight up, which tears the paint film and leaves a ragged line.
3. 🔪 If any paint has bridged onto the tape and started to skin, score the line lightly with a sharp blade before peeling.
4. 📦 Remove the cardboard from beneath the bottom edge before it sticks to the drying paint.
5. 🖌️ Touch up any small bleeds immediately with a fine brush while everything is still wet.

⏰ Leave tape until the paint is fully dry and it will lift flakes of your new finish with it.

🧺 Bin used tape straight away rather than dropping it — wet tape sticks to floors and dust sheets and gets walked through the house.

1. 🔍 Inspect the frame closely — the leading edge and the strike plate area take the most knocks and usually carry the thickest build-up.
2. 🪵 Sand those areas back with 120 grit until the failing layers are gone and the surface is level.
3. 🕯️ Pay attention to mouldings that have been clogged by successive repaints; recovering the crisp profile makes an enormous visual difference.
4. 📏 Feather every stripped edge so there is no step between bare and painted areas.
5. ⏭️ Sound, smooth existing paintwork does not need stripping — move straight on to keying.

⚠️ Test for lead paint in pre-1970 properties before dry sanding any door frame.

🚪 Check the frame still closes freely once thick paint is removed — you may gain a couple of millimetres of clearance.

1. ✨ Sand the full frame and architrave with 320 grit — both uprights, the head, the door stop and the full architrave surround.
2. 🧽 Use a sanding sponge on the moulded architrave profile so the abrasive follows the shape into the quirks and coves.
3. 🚪 Do not forget the inside faces of the frame and the rebate where the door closes — these are always visible when the door is open.
4. 👋 Work until every surface is uniformly dull with no glossy patches remaining.
5. 🔩 Sand right up to hinges and the strike plate, or unscrew them if you want a truly clean job.

💡 Check with a torch held parallel to the surface — sheen is much easier to spot in raking light.

🎯 Fine detail sanded properly is what separates a professional-looking frame from a DIY one.

1. 🧽 Wipe the whole frame and architrave down with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, working from the head downwards.
2. 🕳️ Pay particular attention to the mitre joints and the corners of mouldings, where sanding dust packs in and stays.
3. 💧 Keep the cloth damp rather than wet and rinse it regularly so you are lifting dust rather than smearing it.
4. 🔩 Wipe the hinges and strike plate too — dust sitting on hardware will migrate into your wet paint.
5. ⏳ Allow the frame to dry fully before filling, usually around 10 minutes.

🌬️ Vacuum the floor at the threshold as well; doorways are the dustiest part of any room.

🚫 Never use a household spray cleaner — the residue will interfere with paint adhesion.

1. 🩹 Press fine surface filler into every dent, screw hole and chip with a filling knife, leaving each repair slightly proud.
2. 📐 Fill open mitre joints at the corners of the architrave — these are the first thing the eye notices on a finished frame.
3. 🕳️ Deep damage around old lock or latch positions is better filled in two thin passes than one thick plug.
4. 🚪 Fill the gaps around the strike plate and hinge recesses if the hardware has moved over time.
5. ⏳ Allow the filler to dry fully as directed before sanding.

🧴 Use caulk, not filler, where the outer edge of the architrave meets the wall — that joint flexes.

🌡️ A cold hallway slows drying considerably. Warm the space if you want to finish the frame in a day.

1. ✨ Sand each repair flush with 320 grit, keeping the abrasive flat and working along the length of the member.
2. 🧽 Use a folded sheet or sanding sponge in the mitre corners so you do not round off the crisp arris of the moulding.
3. 👋 Run your fingers over every repair — if you can feel it now, you will see it under paint.
4. 🔁 Re-fill and re-sand anything that has sunk rather than leaving a hollow.
5. 💧 Wipe away all dust with a damp microfibre cloth and let the frame dry.

🎨 Spot-prime large filled areas with a thin coat of the paint itself so they do not flash a different sheen through the topcoat.

💡 Inspect with a torch at a low angle before you accept the surface as finished.

1. 🛡️ Run premium painter's tape along the wall side of the architrave in long continuous lengths up each leg and across the head.
2. 👆 Press the inner edge down firmly with a filling knife so the paint cannot bleed under it.
3. 📐 Butt the tape neatly at the corners rather than overlapping heavily, which creates a thick edge paint can pool against.
4. 🔩 Mask hinges, the strike plate and any door furniture you have not removed.
5. 🧺 Lay a dust sheet across the threshold on both sides of the doorway.

📅 Fresh tape only — old tape bleeds and tears.

🕐 Plan to remove the tape the same day to avoid lifting the wall finish.

1. 🖌️ Start at the top and work down, so any drips fall onto surfaces you have yet to paint.
2. 🎨 Cut in all mouldings, quirks and profiles with a synthetic brush, working the paint into the detail rather than flooding it.
3. 🧻 Lay off the flat faces of the frame and architrave with a short pile microfibre roller for an even, brush-mark-free texture.
4. 🚪 Do not miss the rebate and door stop — they are fully visible whenever the door is open.
5. 👀 Watch for paint building up in the corners of mouldings and brush it out before it sets into a bead.

📉 Thin coats. Heavy paint in a moulding profile will sag into a run within minutes.

🚪 Wedge the door open and out of the way, or take it off its hinges, so you are not working around a swinging obstacle.

1. 🫰 Check it is ready before recoating: wait out the recommended recoat time first — 1–2 hours, longer if conditions are cool or damp — then tap the dried coat very lightly with a fingernail, gently enough not to dent the film. It should feel and sound firm and hard. If it feels soft and sounds dull, a bit like tapping a pencil rubber, give it longer.
2. 🪶 Denib before the next coat: rub the dry coat very lightly with 320 grit to knock back raised grain and dust nibs, then wipe away the dust.
3. ⏱️ Allow a full hour before applying the second coat.
4. 👆 Check the film is dry and completely free of tack before you recoat, especially inside mouldings where paint sits thickest.
5. 🌬️ Keep the doorway ventilated but avoid strong draughts blowing dust and grit onto the wet frame.
6. 🚪 Keep the door open and out of contact with the frame throughout the wait.
7. 🖌️ Bag your brush and roller rather than washing them out between coats.

⚠️ Recoating a tacky frame will drag and roll the first coat off the moulding edges.

🌡️ Cold hallways and unheated landings will need longer than an hour.

1. 🌀 Re-stir the paint and decant fresh into a clean kettle.
2. 🖌️ Apply the second full coat in the same order — top down, profiles first, flat faces laid off last.
3. 💨 Keep the work moving and maintain a wet edge along each leg of the frame so there are no visible joins.
4. 👀 Inspect for thin spots at the arrises and moulding high points, which always cover last.
5. 🛡️ Peel the tape slowly at a shallow angle while the paint is still wet.

✋ Once the coat starts to set, stop touching it. Overworking half-set trim paint leaves permanent brush marks.

🔦 Check the finish in daylight as well as under artificial light before deciding whether a third coat is needed.

1. 🚪 If you are also painting the door, allow the frame at least 24 hours to cure before you start on the door itself.
2. 🪵 Keep the door wedged open and clear of the frame for the whole curing period so the two surfaces cannot touch.
3. 🔒 Do not latch the door shut — freshly cured paint on a rebate will bond to the door edge and tear when opened.
4. 🧽 Give the frame a light wipe with a dry microfibre cloth before painting the door to remove any settled dust.
5. 📅 Remember the full cure is 7 days even though the surface is hard enough for careful use after 24 hours.

⚠️ Paint the door first and you risk dragging wet door paint onto freshly painted frames every time it swings.

🧴 A light dusting of talc on a cured rebate prevents any residual tack sticking in humid weather.

1. 🔍 Check the sill carefully, especially the front edge and the corners against the frame where condensation collects and paint lifts first.
2. 🪵 Sand back with 120 grit until every loose or flaking layer is gone and the surface is sound and level.
3. 💧 Look for soft or blackened timber as you strip — water damage must be dealt with before painting, not covered over.
4. 📏 Feather the edges of the stripped areas so there is no step to show through the finish.
5. 🧹 Vacuum the debris from the sill and the frame runners as you go.

⚠️ Old window paint is a common location for lead. Test before dry sanding in a pre-1970 property.

🌤️ Choose a dry day and open the window while you work — sills need low humidity to dry properly.

1. ✨ Sand the whole sill firmly with 320 grit in the direction of the grain until it feels completely smooth to the hand.
2. 🖐️ Horizontal surfaces catch raking daylight all day long, so every scratch and ridge shows far more than it would on skirting.
3. 📐 Sand the front nose and the underside return as well — both are highly visible from inside the room.
4. 🧽 Use a sanding sponge on any moulded nosing so the abrasive follows the profile.
5. 👋 Finish by checking the whole surface with your palm; it should feel uniformly silky with no dull patches or shine.

💡 Sight along the sill towards the window light to reveal high spots and remaining sheen.

🎯 Time spent here is repaid directly — nothing shows a poor prep job like a window sill.

1. 🧽 Wipe the sill, nosing and underside down with a slightly damp microfibre cloth.
2. 🕳️ Clear dust out of the corners where the sill meets the frame using a folded corner of the cloth.
3. 🪟 Wipe the bottom of the glass and the frame rebate too, so dust does not fall back onto the sill later.
4. ♻️ Rinse the cloth frequently — sills carry more grime and dust than any other trim surface.
5. ⏳ Allow the sill to dry completely before filling; trapped moisture will stop filler bonding.

🧴 If the sill is greasy or has sat under condensation, clean it with sugar soap first and rinse thoroughly.

🌬️ Leave the window open a crack while it dries if the weather allows.

1. 🩹 Press fine surface filler into every crack, dent and area of open grain, leaving each repair slightly proud.
2. 📐 Pay attention to the front edge, which takes the most knocks, and to any splits running with the grain.
3. 🕳️ Fill deeper defects in two thin passes rather than one thick application.
4. 🔩 Fill old screw holes from previous fittings or window locks if you are not reusing them.
5. ⏳ Allow the filler to dry fully — a horizontal surface holds moisture longer, so give it extra time.

💧 If the timber is spongy rather than simply damaged, it needs replacing or a resin repair — filler will not hold.

🌡️ Cold, damp window reveals slow drying dramatically. Be patient rather than painting over soft filler.

1. ✨ Sand every repair flush with 320 grit, keeping the paper flat so the sill stays perfectly level.
2. 👋 Test with your fingertips across the whole surface — horizontal surfaces betray the smallest ridge in daylight.
3. 🔁 Skim and re-sand any repair that has shrunk below the surface.
4. 📐 Re-establish the crisp front arris of the sill rather than rounding it off with the abrasive.
5. 💧 Remove all dust with a damp microfibre cloth and let it dry.

🎨 Spot-prime larger repairs with a thin coat of the paint itself so they do not flash through the finish.

💡 Use the daylight from the window itself as your raking light to check the surface.

1. 🔧 Cut the caulk nozzle small at 45° so you can lay a fine, controlled bead.
2. 🩹 Run a bead along the join between the sill and the wall, and along the join between the sill and the window frame.
3. 👆 Smooth each bead immediately with a damp finger, pressing it into the joint rather than smearing it across the faces.
4. 🧽 Wipe away all excess with a damp cloth before it starts to skin.
5. ⏳ Allow the caulk to dry as directed before painting, typically 1–2 hours.

✅ Use only paintable caulk — silicone will reject the paint entirely.

💧 Sealing these joints properly also stops condensation running into the wall below.

1. 🛡️ Apply premium painter's tape along the very edge of the glass in long, unbroken lengths.
2. 👆 Press the inner edge down firmly with a filling knife so the line is sealed and cannot bleed.
3. 📐 Leave a hairline of the putty line or rebate exposed so the paint seals onto the glass edge, which keeps water out.
4. 🧺 Mask or cover any window furniture, handles and stays you are not removing.
5. 📦 Protect the floor or radiator beneath the sill with a dust sheet.

🪟 Any paint that reaches the glass can be removed once fully dry with a window scraper held at a shallow angle.

🕐 Do not leave tape on glass in direct sunlight for days — heat bakes the adhesive on.

1. 🖌️ Apply a thin first coat with a synthetic brush, working along the length of the sill in the direction of the grain.
2. 🧻 On wide, flat sills lay the paint on with a short pile microfibre roller, then lay off lightly with the brush for an even texture.
3. 📐 Paint the front nose and the underside return as well as the top face.
4. 👀 Watch for paint pooling in the corners against the frame and brush it out immediately.
5. 💨 Work steadily from one end to the other, keeping a wet edge throughout.

☀️ Avoid painting a sill in direct hot sunlight — the surface skins before the paint can level.

📉 Thin coats level far better on a horizontal surface than heavy ones, which pool and wrinkle.

1. 🫰 Check it is ready before recoating: wait out the recommended recoat time first — 1–2 hours, longer if conditions are cool or damp — then tap the dried coat very lightly with a fingernail, gently enough not to dent the film. It should feel and sound firm and hard. If it feels soft and sounds dull, a bit like tapping a pencil rubber, give it longer.
2. 🪶 Denib before the next coat: rub the dry coat very lightly with 320 grit to knock back raised grain and dust nibs, then wipe away the dust.
3. ⏱️ Allow a full hour before the second coat.
4. 👆 Confirm the film is dry and free of tack before recoating — horizontal surfaces hold solvent slightly longer.
5. 🪟 Keep the window open a little for ventilation, but not so wide that the sill collects airborne dust and pollen.
6. 🚫 Do not close and latch the window against a freshly painted sill during the wait.
7. 🖌️ Wrap your brush and roller rather than washing them out mid-job.

🌫️ High humidity around windows extends drying times noticeably — allow longer on damp days.

🐝 Keep the window closed if insects are about; they land in wet paint on sills more than anywhere else.

1. 🌀 Re-stir the paint and decant fresh before starting.
2. 🖌️ Apply the second full coat the same way — top face, front nose and underside return.
3. 💨 Keep a wet edge and work along the sill in one pass rather than stopping and restarting in the middle.
4. 👀 Check the finish in raking daylight for thin patches before the paint sets.
5. 🛡️ Peel the masking tape from the glass slowly, at a shallow angle, while the paint is still wet.

✨ Choose specialist Trim & Woodwork Paint in Satin for a smooth lustre on sills, or Matt for a quieter look. Allow full curing before placing objects on the surface.

🪴 Keep plant pots and ornaments off the sill for the full 7 day cure or they will mark the fresh film.

1. 🧺 Lay a drop cloth over the treads and any carpet, working it into the back of each tread rather than leaving it loose.
2. 📦 Line the gap between the cloth and the string board with cardboard so drips cannot run down into the carpet edge.
3. 🛡️ Tape everything down firmly — a shifting dust sheet on a staircase is a genuine trip hazard as well as a mess risk.
4. 💡 Set up good lighting. Staircases are usually the worst-lit space in the house and you cannot paint what you cannot see.
5. 🚷 Plan your access and route so you are never painting yourself into a corner or reaching across wet spindles.

🪜 Use a proper stair ladder or platform rather than balancing on treads.

🕐 Warn the household — a staircase out of action for a few hours needs planning.

1. 🧴 Dilute sugar soap according to the label, typically one part to five parts warm water.
2. 🧼 Wash the handrail first and most thoroughly — years of hand oils are concentrated there and will stop paint adhering.
3. 🧽 Work the solution into the turned profiles of the spindles with a cloth or flat scouring pad, not just over the high points.
4. 🏛️ Clean the newel posts and caps as well, including the underside of the handrail where hands wrap around it.
5. 🔄 Work in sections and keep the surface wet with solution rather than letting it dry on.

⚠️ Skipping this step is the single most common reason painted bannisters peel within months.

🧤 Wear gloves — sugar soap is alkaline and dries the skin badly.

1. 🧽 Rinse every surface with a clean wet microfibre cloth, changing the water regularly.
2. 🔁 Go over the handrail twice — residue left there will show as patchy adhesion later.
3. 💧 Wring the cloth well so you are not soaking the timber, particularly at joints and end grain.
4. 🌬️ Allow the staircase to dry fully before sanding; sanding damp timber clogs the abrasive and raises the grain.
5. 👋 Check by hand — the surface should feel completely dry and slightly squeaky, not slick.

⏳ Allow longer than you expect in an unheated hallway; 30 minutes is a minimum, not a rule.

🚪 Open a window or run a fan to speed drying without blowing dust around.

1. 🔍 Check the handrail and the base of each spindle first — these are where old finishes fail soonest.
2. 🪵 Sand back with 120 grit until the surface is sound and the failing layers are gone.
3. 📏 Feather the edges of every stripped area so the repair does not telegraph through the finish.
4. 🕯️ Recover clogged detail on turned spindles where thick paint has filled the beads and coves.
5. 🧹 Vacuum thoroughly — staircase dust falls through to the treads below and gets walked through the house.

⚠️ Staircases in older houses very often carry lead paint. Test before dry sanding.

⏭️ Sound, smooth paintwork does not need stripping — go straight to the 320 grit key.

1. 🧽 Sand the handrail, every spindle and both newel posts with 320 grit until all surfaces are uniformly dull.
2. 🌀 Use a sanding sponge on turned and profiled sections so the abrasive follows the shape into the beads and hollows.
3. 📄 Fold a piece of paper into a narrow strip for tight areas where the spindle meets the handrail and the string board.
4. 🤲 The handrail deserves the most attention — it is gripped constantly and any missed sheen there will fail first.
5. 🔍 Work spindle by spindle and check each one all the way round before moving on; it is very easy to miss the back face.

⏱️ This is the longest step in the section. Budget the time properly rather than rushing it.

💡 A head torch is genuinely useful on a dim staircase for spotting missed sheen.

1. 🧽 Wipe every surface down with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, working from the top of the staircase downwards.
2. 🌀 Wrap the cloth around each spindle and draw it down the full length to catch dust sitting in the profiles.
3. 🏛️ Clean the newel caps and the underside of the handrail, both of which collect dust and are easy to forget.
4. ♻️ Rinse the cloth frequently so you lift dust rather than smear it into a grey film.
5. 🧹 Vacuum the treads and drop cloth afterwards, then allow everything to dry.

🌬️ Let the airborne dust settle for 15 minutes before you start painting, or it will land in the wet film.

🚫 Skip household sprays — residue causes adhesion problems on exactly the surfaces you can least afford to fail.

1. ✅ Our Trim & Woodwork paint is self-priming, so sound, previously painted bannisters that have been cleaned and keyed need no separate primer.
2. 🧪 If the finish is varnish, lacquer or oil-based paint, key it thoroughly with 320 grit, then paint a small test patch somewhere hidden, such as the back of a newel post, and leave it overnight.
3. 💅 Drag a fingernail lightly across the dried patch. If it holds firmly, carry on. If it scratches or lifts away, the old finish needs an isolating primer before you paint.
4. ✨ A primer is also an option on bare or newly exposed timber if you want the very finest finish, but it is not required.

🔍 Not sure what the old finish is? Treat it as varnish and do the test patch. It costs one evening and saves redoing the whole staircase.

1. ⬇️ For a single colour, work handrail first, spindles second and newel posts last, so any drips fall onto surfaces still to be painted.
2. 🎨 For a two-tone staircase, paint the spindles first and let them cure fully before masking and painting the handrail.
3. 🚶 Plan your route so you finish at the bottom of the stairs and are never trapped above wet paintwork.
4. 🔢 Count your spindles and work in runs of five or six, completing each run fully before moving on.
5. 🕐 Decide when the staircase can realistically be out of use and work backwards from there.

🏠 If the staircase is the only route upstairs, do half the width at a time and leave one side usable.

📝 Note where you stopped if you break — it is surprisingly hard to see which spindle you last completed.

1. 🖌️ Use a small synthetic brush for spindle profiles and a larger one, or a short pile roller, on the flat runs of handrail.
2. 🌀 Paint each spindle all the way round in one go, following the turned profile rather than brushing straight down the length.
3. 💧 Watch for paint collecting in the coves and at the base of each spindle and brush it out before it sets into a run.
4. 🤲 Lay the handrail off in long, continuous strokes along its length for a smooth, comfortable finish under the hand.
5. 👀 Check the underside of the handrail and the back of every spindle before moving on — both are missed constantly.

📉 Thin coats. Turned profiles collect and hold paint, and runs on spindles are very obvious.

🪜 Reposition your ladder rather than over-reaching; a rushed stretch is how drips happen.

1. 🫰 Check it is ready before recoating: wait out the recommended recoat time first — 1–2 hours, longer if conditions are cool or damp — then tap the dried coat very lightly with a fingernail, gently enough not to dent the film. It should feel and sound firm and hard. If it feels soft and sounds dull, a bit like tapping a pencil rubber, give it longer.
2. 🪶 Denib before the next coat: rub the dry coat very lightly with 320 grit to knock back raised grain and dust nibs, then wipe away the dust.
3. ⏱️ Allow 1–2 hours between coats before you start the second.
4. 🚷 Keep the staircase out of use — one hand on a tacky handrail undoes the whole job.
5. 👆 Check the film for tack in the coves of the spindles, where paint sits thickest and dries slowest.
6. 🌬️ Ventilate the hallway to help the coat dry, without creating a dusty draught.
7. 🖌️ Wrap brushes and rollers rather than washing them out mid-job.

🪧 Put a note or a chair at the bottom of the stairs so nobody forgets.

🌡️ Cold, unheated hallways will need longer than an hour.

1. 🌀 Re-stir the tin and decant fresh paint before you start.
2. 🖌️ Apply the second full coat in exactly the same order as the first — handrail, spindles, newel posts.
3. 🔍 Check underneath the handrail and between the spindles for missed areas from the first coat and cover them properly now.
4. 💨 Keep a wet edge along the handrail and finish each run without stopping halfway.
5. 👀 Do a final walk down the stairs looking up at the underside of everything before the paint sets.

🤲 Bannisters are gripped and leaned on constantly. Use specialist Trim & Woodwork Paint in Matt or Satin, prepare thoroughly and allow full curing.

✋ Do not overwork half-set paint on a handrail — the brush marks will stay.

1. ⏳ Wait until the spindles are fully dry and hard — at least 24 hours — before taping anything to them.
2. 🛡️ Mask carefully at the top of each spindle where it meets the handrail, pressing the tape edge down firmly all the way round.
3. 📐 Take your time on the mask. On a two-tone staircase the tape line is the detail everyone looks at.
4. 🖌️ Paint the handrail and newel posts in your second colour, working top to bottom in two thin coats an hour apart.
5. 🛡️ Peel the tape back at a shallow angle while the final coat is still wet, then touch up any bleed with a fine brush.

✨ Spindles in Satin have a smooth lustre; Matt gives a more restrained look.

🎨 A dark handrail against pale spindles is the classic combination and hides hand wear far better.

1. 🔍 Once both coats are dry, look along each surface at a low angle in good natural daylight rather than under artificial light.
2. 💡 Use a torch held almost parallel to the surface to reveal thin spots, missed areas and nibs of dust in the film.
3. 📐 Check the areas that are always missed: the underside of handrails and sills, the backs of spindles, the frame rebate and skirting returns.
4. 💧 Look for drips and runs at bottom edges and in moulding profiles, which set into hard beads if left.
5. 📝 Note everything that needs attention before you start touching up, so you only go round once.

🌅 Inspect in the morning and again in the evening — different light angles reveal different faults.

🚫 Do not sand a run that is only a few hours old; it will clog and tear. Wait until it is hard.

1. 🌀 Stir the tin thoroughly before touching up. Unstirred paint dries a different sheen and every touch-up will show.
2. 🖌️ Use a small synthetic brush and feather each touch-up out into the surrounding paint rather than dabbing a hard-edged patch.
3. ✨ Cut hardened nibs or runs back with 320 grit first, wipe the dust away, then touch up over the levelled area.
4. 📏 Where a whole face is patchy, it is better to recoat the full length than to spot in several repairs.
5. 👀 Check the touch-ups again once dry, in the same raking light you used for the inspection.

🥫 Keep a small labelled jar of each colour for future touch-ups; staircases and skirting need them eventually.

☀️ Touch up in the same light conditions you inspected in, or you will chase faults that are not there.

1. ⏳ Leave all painted woodwork untouched for at least 24 hours before any light use.
2. 🚪 Keep doors wedged open and unlatched so freshly painted frames and door edges cannot bond together.
3. 🤲 Avoid gripping handrails and leaning on newel posts during this period; the film marks very easily.
4. 🪴 Keep objects off sills and away from skirting — anything resting on soft paint will leave a permanent impression.
5. 🌬️ Keep the rooms ventilated and reasonably warm to help the film harden evenly.

🐕 Keep pets away from freshly painted skirting and staircases for the full 24 hours.

🧺 Leave dust sheets down until the surfaces are hard enough to survive being knocked.

1. 📅 Allow the full 7 day cure before washing woodwork or subjecting it to everyday wear and tear.
2. 💪 The paint reaches its final hardness and washability at the end of the cure, not when it feels dry to the touch.
3. 🧽 After 7 days, clean with a soft cloth and warm soapy water only — never abrasive creams or scouring pads.
4. 🧴 Avoid solvent cleaners and bleach on painted woodwork, which will dull the sheen permanently.
5. 🔧 Refit any hardware, door furniture or window locks you removed once the cure period is complete.

🌡️ Cold or damp conditions extend the cure. In an unheated hallway, allow longer than 7 days before washing.

📸 Photograph the finished work and note the colour and finish for future reference and touch-ups.